Step one: what the floor is made of
Timber floors, common upstairs and in older houses, are built up with a sloped former or boarding so the surface falls to the drain. Joist direction and depth decide where a drain can sit and how the waste pipe can run. Stiffening the floor is often part of the job, because movement is the enemy of a waterproof finish.
Concrete floors, usual on ground floors and in many newer homes, can have falls formed in a screed. If the waste needs to run below the slab, the floor may need to be cut, which adds time and is something we check on the survey.
Step two: falls and drainage
Water has to reach the drain without pooling or spreading towards the door. The fall is shallow enough to walk on comfortably but consistent across the shower zone. A linear drain along one wall lets the floor fall in a single direction, which suits large-format tiles; a square centre drain needs the floor to fall from several sides, which suits smaller tiles or mosaics.
Step three: tanking the room
In a standard bathroom only the shower area needs protecting. In a wet room the whole floor is tanked, with a waterproof membrane that runs up the walls and is reinforced at every corner, joint and pipe. This is the part that stops leaks into the ceiling below, and it is inspected before any tile goes on. Our tanking materials page explains the systems in more detail.
What shapes the cost of a conversion
We are deliberately not quoting a range on this page. The price depends on the factors below, and we give a fixed written quote including VAT after the free survey. Our wet room service page is the place to start on pricing.
| Factor | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Floor type | Timber needs a former and stiffening; concrete may need cutting for the waste |
| Drain position | Moving the waste further from the soil stack means more floor work |
| Room size | The whole floor is tanked and tiled, not just a shower tray area |
| Tile choice | Large-format tiles need a single-direction fall and careful cutting |
| Glass and heating | Screens and underfloor heating are optional extras that add to the scope |
Is a conversion right for your room?
Small bathrooms often gain the most, because removing the tray and enclosure makes the room feel larger. Where splashing onto a toilet or towels would be a problem, a fixed glass panel keeps things drier. If the floor or budget makes a full wet room awkward, a walk-in shower on a low tray gives a similar look with less building work, and our comparison guide sets the two side by side.
Your questions answered
Can any bathroom become a wet room?
Most can, but the floor decides how. Timber floors need a former and often stiffening, and concrete floors may need cutting for the waste. We check both on the survey.
Will a wet room leak into the room below?
Not when it is tanked properly. The whole floor is waterproofed, with reinforced corners and pipe seals, and that layer is checked before tiling.
How much does a wet room conversion cost?
It depends on the floor, drain position, room size and finishes. See our wet room service page for pricing, and we give a fixed written quote including VAT after a free survey.
Do I need a screen?
Not always, but a fixed panel helps in smaller rooms to keep the toilet and towels dry.