What a good tiler looks at before quoting
The surface underneath. Tiles are only as good as what they are stuck to. A tiler should check old plaster for hollow patches, timber floors for movement and bathroom walls for moisture, and tell you if boarding, priming or levelling is needed first.
The tile itself. Large porcelain tiles are heavy and need a flat substrate and the right adhesive; natural stone may need sealing; small mosaics take longer to set out. Each changes the time and materials involved, so the tile should be chosen before the price is fixed.
The layout. Where the first row starts decides where the cut tiles end up. A careful tiler plans the set-out so cuts land in corners and behind fittings rather than across the middle of a feature wall.
Questions worth asking any tiler
Will you strip the old tiles or tile over them? Tiling over is sometimes fine, but only when the existing tiles are firmly fixed and the extra weight is acceptable. Our guide to tiling over existing tiles explains when it works.
What adhesive and grout will you use, and why? A tiler who can explain the choice for your room is usually one who has thought about it.
How will wet areas be waterproofed? Around a shower or bath, tiles and grout are not waterproof on their own. Ask whether the walls will be tanked before tiling.
Who handles the silicone, trims and any plumbing that has to come off the wall? Taps, basins and toilets often need removing and refitting. Because we also do basic plumbing, we can take those off and put them back as part of the same job.
Comparing tiling quotes fairly
Two quotes can look very different simply because one includes preparation and the other does not. Line them up against the same list: removal of old tiles, making good, boarding or levelling, waterproofing, tiling, grouting, trims, sealant and clearing away.
If a quote is a single number with no detail, ask for the breakdown. A tiler confident in the price will be happy to show what it covers, and it protects you from extras appearing halfway through.
Signs of careful tiling once the job is done
Even grout lines that run straight across the whole wall, not just within each row. Cut tiles of a sensible size at the edges, with no thin slivers. Tiles that sound solid when tapped, rather than hollow. Clean, neat silicone where tiles meet the bath, tray or worktop, with no grout packed into those movement joints.
Floors should feel flat underfoot with no raised tile edges, often called lipping. On large format tiles a levelling system is commonly used to keep adjoining edges flush.
Rooms we tile beyond the bathroom
Tiling is one of our two main services alongside bathroom refurbishment. Kitchen splashbacks, kitchen and utility floors, hallways and porches all follow the same principles: a sound, flat surface, the right adhesive for the tile and a layout planned before the first tile goes on.
If you are unsure what your room needs, the free quote visit is the place to find out. We will look at the surface, talk through tile choices and give you a written price.
Where to read next
Questions we get asked most
Should a tiler visit before giving a price?
Yes. The condition of the wall or floor underneath changes how much preparation is needed, and only a visit shows that. A price given without seeing the room is an estimate at best.
Do you tile rooms other than bathrooms?
Yes. We tile walls and floors anywhere in the house, including kitchens, splashbacks, hallways and utility rooms.
Should I buy the tiles or leave it to the tiler?
Either can work. If you buy them, check with your tiler how much extra to order for cuts and breakages, and make sure all the boxes come from the same batch so the shade matches.
Can tiles go straight onto plasterboard?
Lighter tiles often can, if the board is sound and primed. Heavy porcelain or stone may need a stronger backing board, and wet areas need waterproofing first.
What areas do you cover?
We are based in Reading and cover the towns listed on our areas page, including Wokingham, Bracknell, Basingstoke and Newbury.