Preparation is often the longest part
Removing old tiles can pull plaster off with them, leaving a wall that needs repairing or re-boarding. Floors may need old vinyl lifting, timber overboarding or a levelling compound, which then needs time to dry.
In wet areas, waterproofing adds another stage and its own drying time. None of this shows once the tiles are on, but skipping it is what causes tiles to crack or come loose later.
The tile you choose changes the pace
Large format tiles cover area quickly but are heavy, need a very flat surface and take care to handle and cut. Small mosaics and metro tiles are slower to lay because there are far more pieces and grout lines. Patterns such as herringbone take longest of all, as nearly every edge tile is a cut.
Natural stone may need sealing before and after grouting, which adds steps.
Setting and curing times
Adhesive has to set before tiles are grouted, and grout has to cure before it is wetted or walked on heavily. Rapid-setting products shorten these waits and are often used on floors that need to be back in use quickly.
Silicone around baths, trays and worktops also needs to cure before water reaches it. Your tiler should tell you when each area can be used.
Tiling as part of a bathroom refit
In a full bathroom, tiling sits between first fix plumbing and second fix, when the toilet, basin and taps are connected. That means the room is out of use for the tiling and the stages either side of it. Our installation day-by-day guide shows where tiling fits in the programme.
Keeping the job on schedule
Have tiles on site before the start date, and check every box is from the same batch. Decide the layout and any feature areas in advance. Clear the room so the tiler is not moving furniture. These simple steps prevent more delays than any faster adhesive.
Floors versus walls
Walls are usually tiled from a level batten upwards so the rows stay true, and heavy tiles may need the batten to support them while the adhesive grips. Floors are set out from the centre or from the most visible edge, and the tiler works back towards the door so the room is not walked on while the adhesive sets. A floor in a hallway or kitchen that is in constant use may be tiled in sections, which takes longer overall but keeps a route through the house open while the rest sets.
Frequently asked questions
When can I walk on a newly tiled floor?
Once the adhesive has set, light foot traffic is usually fine, but avoid heavy use and furniture until the grout has cured. Your tiler will give the times for the products used.
How soon can I use a newly tiled shower?
Only after the grout and silicone have fully cured. Using it early can let water behind the tiles.
Does tiling over old tiles save time?
It can remove the strip-out stage, but only when the old tiles are firmly fixed and the extra weight is acceptable. Our tiling over existing tiles guide explains when it works.
Why did my tiler say the wall needs work first?
Tiles are only as sound as the surface behind them. Hollow plaster, uneven walls or damp board need putting right first, or the tiles are likely to fail.
Do you tile kitchens and floors as well as bathrooms?
Yes. We tile walls and floors anywhere in the house, including kitchens, splashbacks and hallways.