Electric systems
A thin mat or loose cable set into levelling compound or adhesive under the tiles. Adds only a few millimetres of height, which matters when door thresholds are fixed.
Straightforward to retrofit during a refurbishment, needs a thermostat and a dedicated electrical supply with appropriate protection and certification.
Fast to warm up, ideal for timed morning and evening use. Running cost per hour is higher than wet, but bathroom floor areas are small and usage is short.
Wet systems
Pipework connected to the central heating, buried in screed. Cheaper to run and better for continuous background warmth.
Needs meaningful floor build-up and manifold space, so it makes sense as part of an extension, a full floor rebuild or a whole-house system rather than a single bathroom refit.
Slower to respond, which suits a house heated steadily rather than in short bursts.
What it does not replace
In most bathrooms, underfloor heating alone will not carry the full heat load on a cold day. Keep a towel rail or radiator sized appropriately unless the calculations say otherwise.
It also needs insulation boards beneath it on a cold floor, otherwise a significant share of the heat goes downwards into the structure.
Frequently asked questions
Can underfloor heating go under any tile?
Porcelain and stone conduct heat well and are ideal. It works with most tiles provided flexible adhesive and grout are used.
How much floor height does electric add?
Typically only a few millimetres for the mat plus the levelling layer over it, which is why it retrofits so easily.
Is it expensive to run?
In a small bathroom on a timer, most people find it modest. Insulation boards underneath make a real difference to efficiency.
Who does the electrical connection?
It is carried out and certified to current regulations as part of the project - we coordinate it rather than leaving you to arrange it.
Next step
Deciding on underfloor heating? It has to be agreed before the floor goes down, so raise it at survey.
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