Extraction that actually works
The fan needs to be sized for the room, ducted by the shortest sensible route in rigid or semi-rigid duct, and vented outside - not into a loft void.
An overrun timer matters more than raw power. Most of the moisture leaves in the minutes after the shower stops, when the room is empty and the fan has usually already switched off.
Humidity-sensing fans handle this automatically and are worth the small extra cost in family bathrooms.
Warm surfaces stop the water forming
Cold external walls and single-glazed windows are where condensation lands first. A heated towel rail sized to the room, or underfloor heating on a timer, raises surface temperatures enough to change the outcome.
Insulated backer board on a cold external wall behind tiles is a small cost during a refurbishment and makes a noticeable difference.
Finishes that tolerate moisture
Anti-mould sealant, moisture-tolerant paint on the ceiling, and minimising porous grout runs above the shower all reduce how visible the problem becomes while the other fixes do the work.
Frequently asked questions
Why does mould come back after I clean it?
Cleaning removes the growth, not the conditions. Unless the moisture is extracted and surfaces are warmer, it recolonises the same corners.
Can you fit an extractor as a standalone job?
Yes, including the ducting and the electrical work, and we will tell you if the existing duct route is the actual problem.
Is an openable window enough?
Rarely in winter, because nobody leaves it open long enough. Mechanical extraction with an overrun is far more reliable.
Does underfloor heating help with damp?
It helps with condensation by keeping the room and its surfaces warmer and drying the floor quickly after use.
Next step
We include ventilation in every refurbishment quote rather than treating it as an afterthought.
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